Day 22: Hospital de la Cruz — A Trace of Hannah Grace

Mileage

We walked 18.2 miles from Barbadelo to Hospital de la Cruz

Highlights

After barely having enough money for dinner last night, our poor planning left us with only five euros and about 12 miles until the next ATM in Portomartín. We spent four euros on a well-deserved coffee and toast at the first bakery we encountered. With only one euro to spare, we accepted our fate as hungry hikers and trekked on. Much to our surprise, we turned a corner and came across a table of food. They had fruit, sandwiches and everything in between. The stand was donation-only, so we took what we needed to hold us over until we reached the city and donated all the spare change we could find in our pockets. We couldn’t stop smiling feeling overwhelmed with relief and comfort that someone was looking after us.

When we reached our destination, the albergue looked like crap. After walking 18 miles, we didn’t have it in us to walk another mile to the next town, so we stopped at a bed and breakfast. The facilities were decent despite the fact that the toilet had no seat and the rooms smelled like cat pee. The food, however, was horrific. We ordered the pilgrim meal because there was no grocery store nearby and were horrified by the concoctions they served us. Somehow, we still fell asleep happy to be under a roof and proud of where our feet took us that day.

A Trace of Grace

Notes from a trekking Mama

Coincidences along the Camino? I think not. Divine intervention? Yes. So many perfect moments today where Hannah and I both said, “wow”. The best was when we were down to our last Euro, and we weren't sure what we were going to do for lunch because there are no ATMs in the countryside, when suddenly there was a woman on the side of the road providing snacks for a donation. She even offered her bathroom, which is always important for me!!! Homemade donuts, water, fruit, and her lovely smile that made us feel welcome.

Although it was not a pleasant evening in our stinky basement hotel, we got out early and walked through many beautiful farms and fields of corn. Every farm had a dog or two that we assume helps herd the animals but could care less about pilgrims. There were lots of very timid kittens along the way as well. As much as these farms reek of manure, I loved them!